A big trend happening in fashion houses across the world from Burberry to Tom Ford to Tommy Hillfiger is the “See now buy now” approach to fashion. The see now buy now approach is what walks down the runway is immediately available to purchase on-line to the everyday consumer. Instead of months waiting for a item you saw on the runway I’ll with arrive via express shipping days after seeing a leggy model strut it down the runway. From runway to street view in moments has been the dream for fashionistas but it’s becoming a reality.

For Burberry and Moschino and others this means the Winter 2017 shows that happened last month. You can read all about the nuts and bolts of how brands like Burberry are doing this in this business of fashion article: How Burberry is Operationalising ‘See Now, Buy Now’.

Is see now buy now happening in Japanese fashion? Not yet, but signs point to maybe.

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Merry Jenny Spring 2017 now with gorgeous freckles

There are big hurdles for Japanese fashion because it’s not made to work that way. This month’s Japanese high brand fashion week: Amazon Tokyo Fashion Week was a Spring/Summer 2017 affair. Most off-the-rack brands only go a season out so it would be Spring Summer 2017 for now. Instead of the high brands one more season ahead, New York Milan and Paris all showed Winter 2017 looks.

Most off-the-rack brands (all Shibuya 109 brands, Shibuya Lumine brands etc…) do not do fashion shows, or when they do they are mid-season to push more season sales (Tokyo Girls Collection, Kobe Collection etc…). Instead they do exhibitions ( 展示会 tenjikai) which are showrooms of the clothing and from seeing these samples select shops (which carry a wide variety of brands online or in stores) and models/talent/press can preorder these items. These preorders come out pretty much the same time as they do to the everyday consumer but doing these exhibitions generates hype from models and talent and sales for the season from select shops.

Giant clothing company Mark Styler (aka Runway Channel website) which runs Mercury Duo, Dazzlin, Laguna Moon, Murua, Emoda, Gyda, Evris, Merry Jenny, Eat Me, Jouetie and others has decided to make a tiny change. This week during running their three days of exhibitions they also decided to release catalog and preorders on the Runway Channel website for the Spring 2017 collection. Thus far only Merry Jenny and Evris Spring 2016 are available but only for a week. But this is a significant shift by a very large clothing company to get closer to the see now buy now approach.

The clothing preorders which release from Janurary to March is the traditional “1st collection” time for Spring/Summer releases. Which about 30 items from Evris and 13 items from Merry Jenny this isn’t a huge amount for such a giant as Mark Styler.

I’m very interested to see how Mark Styler’s plan works. They chose two of the brands that skew younger and have few stores compared to the giants of Dazzlin or Murua. Checking the webstore rankings many Evris Spring 2017 items are in the top 30 so it’s showing promise in this infant stage. It is worth noting that the Evris phone case is the biggest preorder item because it’s much easier to decide what your phone is going to wear 6 months from now than yourself.

This approach is not new to Japanese fashion accessories centric brand Honey mi Honey and girly adult Rosary Moon do tend to put their collections up far in advance and often right after the exhibitions for preorder. However both are smaller brands run by smaller companies. Neither capable of shoving the trends.

Some pros to consider: It’s definitely not as close to see now buy now as Western high brands are doing, but this is also a start of dropping the curtain between the tastemakers of buyers and press and the everyday consumer. A more socialist fashion plan? I’m for it!

Some cons to consider: The concerns as business of fashion has put them is do these early presales hurt the regular season sales? Are people over shopped before the season even starts.

 

After all that how about some visuals?

Evris Spring Summer 2017 First Collection

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Trends to note: Contrast denim (I see this becoming big ss17), Embroidery carrying on. Printed and lace over jackets instead of the thin cardigans from last year, chokers, low necks, and vintage-feel items.

Merry Jenny Spring Summer First Collection

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Trends to note: mules carrying on from Fall 2016, wide pants continuing, sheer overdresses, frills and flounces (big Spring 2017 trend across all brands).

The first pair of pants actually have pearls sewn to the front. I’m all about it.

 

A week only seems quite short to test the waters, but hopefully this trend continues. I’m enjoying the curtain a little lifted.

 

 

I’ve gotten a little bored of Snapchat so I’ve fully moved to instagram stories. I used to not post much on Insta, but I’ll try again  :heartguy:

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Evris shop staff are exceedingly nice. The Shibuya 109 group of ladies are stellar all around, but in particular Marin Matsuzaki (松崎茉鈴). I do gush often how shop staff are nice and good at their jobs, but Marin takes the cake. Marin is both stylish and kind. I met her first when I was shopping with Alanna and she was so friendly. The next time was 6 months later and she still remembered both me and asked after Alanna. She also asked after my man and my cats, since we spoke about both… 6 months ago!

Marin has excellent personal style and she’s doing well in Evris for it, working as a blogger for the brand. She’s recently gotten snapped in both #N and Jelly and I’m really happy she’s flourishing in print, too! For those looking for short hair inspiration she’s definitely got it.

Her blog: http://ameblo.jp/marin-matsuzaki/

Her instagram: http://instagram.com/marinmatsuzaki

Spring 2014 Marin’s looks

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Such a babe! I love her blue contacts with her blue necklace and the subtle nose shading. Did you notice her ring. I don’t know how anyone else gets to see the jewels, but it’s cool!

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I don’t know if I’d consider matching a bold necklace with a top that’s impact is around the neck, but it really works.

Her wonderful spring hot pink lip keeps her from looking too simple. If I remember right it’s YSL. The whole staff was required to wear it as it was Evris’s color for the Spring.

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Always showing off her brand. She looks both adult and casual at the same time. Love the skirt and top combination.

In my previous Evris snap post I took a picture of a different shop staff in the same shirt and shoes.  But the style is different, always cool to check two girls making clothing their own.

Marin and Staff from Fall 2014

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There was a Rockabilly theme for Fall and Winter and the leopard and tortoiseshell print shoes are great pairings for plaids and furs. Both girls look cute stylish and casual.

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Close-ups. It looks like Marin changed her contacts for the season, as did the other shop staff. Possibly to Evris producer Ayano Sasaki’s new produced lens Cidina.

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 Flipped out short hair and bobby pins were the big hair trends of Fall and Marin is rocking both. Creative and interesting bobby pins will be popular for Spring 2015 as well! Her cateye line is so stellar!

Marin for Spring 2015

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And from Marin’s instagram her style for this Spring. One year of Marin  :loveword: Her key for this Spring is orange.  I really like the orange, yellow, blue popularity of Spring 2015.

Bonus Jelly snaps!

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Bonus! Her shot from Jelly January issue talking about denim wearing all Evris. She’s also in the #N Neogal magazine photos last post.

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And Evris producer Ayano Sasaki in the coat Marin was wearing in her Fall snap.

Ahh this was a fun post. I’m an obsessive person and my obsessions have obsessions within them. So my obsession with Japanese fashion has gyaru within it and another is personal style. Another obsession within an obsession for me is style change, or evolution. How a singular girl goes through gyaru and changes. I really love the ones over time through many years. However this short year also shows how one girl, Marin, tried out a lot of style choices for herself  :smiley:


Emoda’s Ena Matsumoto retiring

Other news of note I posted on my twitter is that Emoda creator and producer Ena Matsumoto has decided to retire from Emoda.  She’s thus far not spoken of future plans. She acknowledges how much Emoda has changed since it’s inception (Summer 2010 post on Emoda coming to Shibuya 109). She said she’s also grown a lot during that time. She wondered if maybe she should create an older sister brand to focus on or even a completely new brand, but in the end she decided she just wanted to retire first.

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Speaking of style change. WOW! Ena Matsumoto 2010 and 2015.

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Neogal has created a lot of press lately and the word seems to have grown from just a double page spread in Vivi magazine to a full fledged style tribe. English language anything-Asian site Kotaku even decided to report about the Neogal trend (based on a Japanese tv program MezamashiTV).

I’m going to link and talk about all the press that Neogal has gotten and break down what the style is considered by many different sources and then talk about what’s up with gyaru.

 

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NeoGal lover interviewed on MezamashiTV

Fig and Viper Producer Neogal Talk #1

Fig & Viper producer Alisa Ueno has even taken to English to describe Neogal, but her thoughts seem to very much be changing.

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Alisa explaining NeoGal on MezamashiTV

Her first response via tumblr a month ago was this:

haha ive never said “I’m a neogal” and stuff tho. lol this word is from one of the article in ViVi magazine.
who cares about the differences or something w gal culture?
i was a gyaru when i was teenager
and i dont think neogal is gyaru. so you guys are right. its just using the same word “gal”, but just mezamashi TV broadcasted gal has shifted neogal. but its wrong.lol (shh..;p)

anyways, what i just can say is… whatever ! lol
but theres no culture in tokyo/jp right now so i just wanna set japan alight through fashion and culture. cuz we have olympic in 7 yrs?idk lol
other japanese as well.
so TV and magazine want some topic or news of tokyo young/youth culture thats why everyone focuses on neogal.

And since then she’s decided to tag most of her outfits as #neogal and spread the word. So… she’s now calling herself neogal.

Fig and Viper Producer Alisa Ueno’s NeoGal Talk and Interview #2

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She’s recently given an interview with Fashion Collection Tokyo that’s two parts that they’ve translated into English. You can read part one and part two here.

Her recent feelings on the Neogal in the interview are here

Neo-Gal was born instead of Gal? What do you think?
I don’t think so, actually the number of Gal is decreasing, but just it, Neo-Gal was born from Neo-Gal, Gal was born from Gal, so totally different.

Your friend, Ayano Sasaki, who is the director of EVRIS, is also called Neo-Gal. Have you ever talked about Neo-Gal with her?
No, because we don’t think we are Neo-Gal. I think she isn’t aware that she is a Neo-Gal. We know that we are called Neo-Gal, but we have totally different style, so we don’t know Neo-Gal is what. In common, I, Ayano, Natsumi Saito and GYDA(a fashion brand) is called Neo-Gal, if I you ask me, we may be inspired by fashion overseas.

…but she tags it? I just don’t know. I think she’s been contradictory.

Since a style tribe is not just one person or usually even one brand Style Arena steps in…

 

Style Arena names NeoGal a New Tribe

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Other than Alisa, the best street fashion site in Japan, Style Arena, has decided to report on NeoGal as a new tribe.

Style Arena always does a clear, concise job on reporting on new street fashion in Japan and I think their description of Neogal is quite good mainly because they have nothing to gain or lose by discussing it.

Talking to actual Neo Gyarus, it seems they were Ko-Gyarus (little Gyarus) in high school and they naturally progressed to this present style by wearing clothes and make-up they liked after graduating. Major sources of Neo Gyaru fashion information include fashion producer blogs and overseas collections. Neo Gyarus immediately want to buy items that they take a liking to so Internet shopping is popular. There are no particular themes in this fashion. It is possible to incorporate whatever clothing you prefer whether it is second-hand or luxury brand name clothing. Highlights are a popular hair style with many Neo Gyarus coloring only the tips of their hair with hair chalk.

So a key for Neogals is many of them had the foundation of gyaru. Alisa Ueno and Ayano Sasaki (Evris Producer) as well as Yuria Kushido (Gyda Producer) all were gyaru.

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Alisa Ueno from 2010

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Alisa Ueno from 2011

Both pretty damn gal. (taken from her ameblo)

So she like the girls and brands she mentioned she considered NeoGal all have had a foundation of gyaru.

 

Popteen and Gal History now Neogal

Popteen has recently put out a history of gyaru and they’ve decided to make 2013-2014 the year of both NeoGal and “Sweet Baby Color Girly Style” aka Larme-kei.

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So Popteen calls out NeoGal as a gyaru progression and maybe one of the trends in Gyaru.

Random fact: former lady models are often called OG models. OB/OldBoy is common in Japanese slang for OB former of a sports team or magazine, but OG is OldGal. Alisa’s 24 and she’s an OG.  :lolpastel:

 

 Final thoughts.

I side more with Style Arena’s point of view than anyone. It’s a new tribe full of former gyaru who want to mix style up yet with modern twists. I do not think Neogal is Gyaru’s new form as Popteen suggests, but I think it’s a bit superficial to ignore its connection with gal. Especially since it most if not all lovers of Neogal were into gyaru.

I don’t think NeoGal is killing gyaru. It’s a popular style but a loose one, if you count Evris, Gyda and Fig and Viper as the stores it’s barely 10 stores across Japan. If Fig and Viper are the chief operators of Neogal it only has 6 stores and they’re in Tokyo, Osaka and Kanazawa. That’s not a takeover. Gyda itself had to die off once in Shibuya 109 and then come back. Evris only has 2 stores in Tokyo.

Neogal is frankly too new. Alisa’s concept of Fig & Viper has changed wildly throughout it’s short four year history. It started out as oneegyaru overseas brand (example), moved to a colorful “blogger” look (see the Fig and Viper shop staff from 2012) and now it’s a bright crazy one.

 

I stick by what I always feel has been killing gyaru.

:bow: Over mori, nails/hair/everything went too over the top and impossible to maintain. Tanning died. Even if you like it, the over mori people who kept up with it all started looking the same. Outrageous yet a bit boring.

:bow: The boom of 2007-2009 in gyaru created gyaru but many of them naturally calmed from that era and are moving towards something else. That can be Neogal, but it’s also mega popular Onee gyaru, Mode, or Street casual like Sly. Again all of the other choices than Neogal have many more stores and followers.

:bow: The growth of oraora, it’s a way to rebel without as much flashiness. No to mention Ora Ora and psy-trance (saike) go hand in hand which allows people to congregate at raves and music events without the problems of Shibuya.

:bow: The K-Pop boom is crazy in Japan as well as AKB48. The new highschoolers who could pick an aging Ayu or older Koda Kumi instead are going with the youth and fun of K-Pop and AKB48. Both which don’t promote gyaru.

:bow: Brands were too quick to change their individual style to promote the new hot trend. Soon mode clothing was at every store not just Emoda and Murua and brands started looking the same, Lip Service and Egoist now look like Murua. It ruins brand loyalty and individuality. The sweet dolly boom has created a lot of watered down Liz Lisa, Ank Rouge types like Adree, Secret Honey, recently bankrupted Ricori and more.

:bow: Shibuya has been dying since 2008. Dying because of the asshole fake policemen harassing gyaru since 2008. The popular Center-gai McDonalds closed early. Dancing was banned and clubs shrank. There became much less safe-space gathering places for lots of gyaru. Again and again older gyaru lament how Shibuya has died and keep saying “let’s go back” but without any real game plan or safe space.

…and a lot of other reasons. The growth of foreign fast fashion brands in Japan, the on-line discount brands like Yumetenbo and Galstar, the lack of new original models etc… It’s so multi-faceted.

 

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Evris is turning to lush fabrics, jewels, leopard and leather to create a Fall 2014 style exhibition titled “Modern Billy Star“. For me it’s the best original style for Fall 2014 that I’ve seen come out of Shibuya 109 brands. I’ll be profiling more later, but for now let’s enjoy Evris for Fall.

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In Ayano Sasaki’s words translated from here are…

“Modern Billy Star” is

A Rockabilly style that’s directly influenced by her boyfriend who’s always beside her and she’s a “High Teen Girl” who’s always the center of attention. Trapped between girl and womanhood she’s not afraid to try all the sides of womanhood. She’s a girl who’s able to transform into a good girl in front of her mom to a bad girl with her boyfriend. British street fashion is the base with earthy colors as the center, the styling is always modern, with leather and leopard along with original prints to create a cheeky rock style that’s easily interchangeable.

It’s the new style of “FASHION = NO RULE” a “MODERN BRITISH STREET” with “ROCKABILLY” to create a new “FASHION”.

The season’s colors are Dark Brown, Dark Green, Bordeaux and Navy.

The season’s prints are plaid, leopard, paisley, flower and dot.

The season’s textures are lace, leather and tortoiseshell.

Rockbilly is influenced by old style American films such as “Grease”, “America Grafitti” and “Crybaby”.

It’s not girly and it’s not exactly lady-like either. The biggest inspiration is Traci Lords from the movie “Crybaby” not just in style but in mood as well.

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Traci Lords (right) who was super fabulous in “Crybaby”

Evris Fall 2015 TouchMe Runway looks

I’m going to mostly let you guys enjoy the runway style and just mention some Fall 2014 trends that go all across Japan style for the upcoming season.

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Print mix, structured bags, pointy shoes, sock influence, long coats

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Headbands, jeweled, looser denim, pearls, short leather jackets

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Color + monotone mix, backpacks. earrings over necklaces

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Vintage vanity bags. Hairbows.

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Crushed velvet (rolling over from last Fall)

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Midi and knee-length skirts 100% fall trend now, one color dressing

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90s grunge with lace over shirts. Majority of details above the bust and below the knee.

Runway Closeups and Evris Exhibition details

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This look for me stole the runway. Very everyday but wonderful details like jeweled neckline and comfortable slight acid wash pants. The leather jacket although fake looks remarkable supple.

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The tortoiseshell is a big highlight for me. It looks marvelous against the crushed velvet and delicate lace socks. A basic yet not basic. Structured bags and preppy style shoes such as oxfords and loafers are going to be very popular for Fall.

Tortoiseshell I haven’t seen as much in other brand’s collections but I bet it will grow. Tortoiseshell is known as べっ甲 | べっこう | bekkou in Japanese.

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The jewel chain necklines are fabulous. I really want a shirt.

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The highwaist life continues. Again check out how the details happen above the bust and below the knee.

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Plaid (known as “check” in Japan) is going to be big this year. I like Evris’s more modern take on the look.

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Evris Fall Coordinates

Coordinates by producer Ayano Sasaki and exhibition staff fully in AW 2014 Evris style.

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Again I’m quite excited about this brand for Fall. I’ve been feeling that brands have become a bit boring with their choices, but instead Evris hasn’t gotten flashy but more rich. The deep tones and jewels and pearls make the pieces look elegant but they’re always paired with something to keep it casual or funky.

More gyaru news: Blenda magazine is closing with it’s August issue. As I tweeted earlier, Blenda magazine is closing. Vivi, Jelly, (new)Ranzuki, and Popteen are the still holding strong. Blenda for me is the most shocking. Although I’ve considered their style quite boring their main models especially Ide Reiko have always been beloved. Ide Reiko now has a new brand to concentrate on “Love is….Tokyo” which I’ll blog about soon (hopefully before Norway trip).

Need more Evris ? Soon another shop staff and Fall style but check out the brand introduction here

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