A big trend happening in fashion houses across the world from Burberry to Tom Ford to Tommy Hillfiger is the “See now buy now” approach to fashion. The see now buy now approach is what walks down the runway is immediately available to purchase on-line to the everyday consumer. Instead of months waiting for a item you saw on the runway I’ll with arrive via express shipping days after seeing a leggy model strut it down the runway. From runway to street view in moments has been the dream for fashionistas but it’s becoming a reality.
For Burberry and Moschino and others this means the Winter 2017 shows that happened last month. You can read all about the nuts and bolts of how brands like Burberry are doing this in this business of fashion article: How Burberry is Operationalising ‘See Now, Buy Now’.
Is see now buy now happening in Japanese fashion? Not yet, but signs point to maybe.
Merry Jenny Spring 2017 now with gorgeous freckles
There are big hurdles for Japanese fashion because it’s not made to work that way. This month’s Japanese high brand fashion week: Amazon Tokyo Fashion Week was a Spring/Summer 2017 affair. Most off-the-rack brands only go a season out so it would be Spring Summer 2017 for now. Instead of the high brands one more season ahead, New York Milan and Paris all showed Winter 2017 looks.
Most off-the-rack brands (all Shibuya 109 brands, Shibuya Lumine brands etc…) do not do fashion shows, or when they do they are mid-season to push more season sales (Tokyo Girls Collection, Kobe Collection etc…). Instead they do exhibitions ( 展示会 tenjikai) which are showrooms of the clothing and from seeing these samples select shops (which carry a wide variety of brands online or in stores) and models/talent/press can preorder these items. These preorders come out pretty much the same time as they do to the everyday consumer but doing these exhibitions generates hype from models and talent and sales for the season from select shops.
Giant clothing company Mark Styler (aka Runway Channel website) which runs Mercury Duo, Dazzlin, Laguna Moon, Murua, Emoda, Gyda, Evris, Merry Jenny, Eat Me, Jouetie and others has decided to make a tiny change. This week during running their three days of exhibitions they also decided to release catalog and preorders on the Runway Channel website for the Spring 2017 collection. Thus far only Merry Jenny and Evris Spring 2016 are available but only for a week. But this is a significant shift by a very large clothing company to get closer to the see now buy now approach.
The clothing preorders which release from Janurary to March is the traditional “1st collection” time for Spring/Summer releases. Which about 30 items from Evris and 13 items from Merry Jenny this isn’t a huge amount for such a giant as Mark Styler.
I’m very interested to see how Mark Styler’s plan works. They chose two of the brands that skew younger and have few stores compared to the giants of Dazzlin or Murua. Checking the webstore rankings many Evris Spring 2017 items are in the top 30 so it’s showing promise in this infant stage. It is worth noting that the Evris phone case is the biggest preorder item because it’s much easier to decide what your phone is going to wear 6 months from now than yourself.
This approach is not new to Japanese fashion accessories centric brand Honey mi Honey and girly adult Rosary Moon do tend to put their collections up far in advance and often right after the exhibitions for preorder. However both are smaller brands run by smaller companies. Neither capable of shoving the trends.
Some pros to consider: It’s definitely not as close to see now buy now as Western high brands are doing, but this is also a start of dropping the curtain between the tastemakers of buyers and press and the everyday consumer. A more socialist fashion plan? I’m for it!
Some cons to consider: The concerns as business of fashion has put them is do these early presales hurt the regular season sales? Are people over shopped before the season even starts.
After all that how about some visuals?
Evris Spring Summer 2017 First Collection
Trends to note: Contrast denim (I see this becoming big ss17), Embroidery carrying on. Printed and lace over jackets instead of the thin cardigans from last year, chokers, low necks, and vintage-feel items.
Merry Jenny Spring Summer First Collection
Trends to note: mules carrying on from Fall 2016, wide pants continuing, sheer overdresses, frills and flounces (big Spring 2017 trend across all brands).
The first pair of pants actually have pearls sewn to the front. I’m all about it.
A week only seems quite short to test the waters, but hopefully this trend continues. I’m enjoying the curtain a little lifted.
I’ve gotten a little bored of Snapchat so I’ve fully moved to instagram stories. I used to not post much on Insta, but I’ll try again